Candied Wild Violets

Ingredients:
as many wild violets as you find and would like to candy
1 egg white, or pasteurized egg white if you have concerns about eating raw egg
a little dish of superfine sugar, or conventional sugar which you have ground in a spice grinder, blender, or food processor until it is very fine in texture

Method:

• Leaving the stems intact, wipe any obvious debris from your violets.

• Holding the stem of a violet close to the flower head in one hand, dip the thumb and forefinger of your other hand into the egg white and smear each petal gently to moisten it using a pinch and pull motion. Your goal is to evenly moisten each petal with egg white without bruising the flower and while maintain its delicate shape.

• When all of the petals have been coated with egg white, set the flower carefully on a piece of waxed paper and shake some sugar over it gently. Holding the stem, turn the flower to coat all surfaces, and then shake the flower gently to remove any excess sugar.

• Proceed until all of your violets have been candied.

• When the flowers are dry, pinch off their stems.

• Store the flowers at room temperature.

Serving Suggestions
Candied violets are a lovely addition to cakes and cupcakes, to ice cream or custard, or to salads that would benefit from a sweet and floral element. If you add them to salad, use them as a garnish after the other ingredients have been tossed together with a dressing.

Hand-pulled Cotton Candy Tips
You are bringing the candy up to 269 degrees, and you want it to take between 20 and 25 minutes.  If you have a powerful gas burner (22,000 BTUs), medium heat is perfect.  If you have a conventional gas or electric burner, try medium high or high heat.  Watch the temperature closely.  If it is rising too slowly or too quickly, adjust the heat accordingly.

If you have sugar crystals on the side of your pan, wash them down with a wet brush.

One-quart plastic containers are perfect for this recipe.  You could divide the candy into other containers, but be sure they are made of flexible material so that you can pop out the discs of candy when they are solidified.

You need a fine powder to keep the candy from sticking together as you pull it into strands.  Cornstarch works well and is neutral in flavor.  Cocoa powder mixed with cornstarch also works well.  You may mix any ratio you like.

If your candy is too hard to work, microwave it for a few seconds at a time until it is pliable in the center.

As you work the candy, keep it moving through the cornstarch so that its strands remain separate.

Cutting the candy with a scissors will glue the strands together.  Pull it until it tears if you wish to separate portions.

Hand-pulled Cotton Candy
Converted for American kitchens from the French Culinary Institute’s Tech’N Stuff blog, Cooking Issues
Yield:  four generous bundles of about 16,000 strands each

Ingredients:
4 1/3 c. sugar
2 c. water
1 t. vinegar
scant ½ c. corn syrup
1 drop food coloring (optional)
cornstarch for working the candy

Method:

• Place all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan and stir them together extremely gently, so as to not get any sugar crystals on the side of the pan.

• Bring the mixture to a boil.

• Insert a candy thermometer and watch it closely.  When it reaches 268 degrees, remove it from the heat.

• Allow the candy to cool to 212 degrees in the pan.

• Then divide it evenly into four one-quart plastic containers.

• When the candy reaches room temperature, remove it from the container by squeezing gently as you turn the container.

• Place a generous sprinkling of cornstarch onto a baking sheet with sides.

• Roll the candy in the cornstarch and rub off the excess.

• Now with your thumbs and forefingers, burrow a hole into the center of the candy.

• Using gentle pressure, enlarge the circle.  Keep the candy a uniform thickness around the rope.

• When the rope becomes long, twist it into a figure eight and bring the two halves together.

• Now you begin pulling the candy in earnest.  Hold the candy in both fists.  Your front hand remains stationery while your back hand gently pulls.  Rotate your hand positions and the candy and continue pulling until the strands are long.

• Make a figure eight, bring the two halves together and continue pulling.

• Pull the candy for ten to fourteen turns.

• Refer to the step-by-step photographs above and to this excellent video from the French Culinary Institute’s Tech’N Stuff blog.

Lollipop Tips:
A double boiler is a pan of gently simmering water over which you place another pan or bowl containing food to be cooked or melted gently.  The pan should not touch the water below.   You can purchase proper double boilers that come as a nesting set, but you can also improvise your own.  Just make sure that your pan or bowl will rest on the rim of the pan of water and not drop in before you begin.

If you would like to add details to your lollipops, take a tiny paintbrush and paint in the details of the molds with a little chocolate in a contrasting color, such as dark chocolate in this case.  Colored candy melts would also work.   I don’t think they taste very good, but you won’t likely notice with such a tiny amount.

Salted Peanut White Chocolate Lollipops
Yield: 30 lollipops

Ingredients:
3 pounds white chocolate, chopped (or use white chocolate chips)
1 ½ c. salted peanuts, chopped

Equipment:
30 Lollipop molds
30 Lollipop sticks
30 Lollipop bags
30 lenths of ribbon or twist ties

Method:

• Chop the chocolate and melt it over a double boiler or in the microwave at half power for 30-second intervals, stirring between each.

• Pour the molten chocolate into a large piping bag with a plain tip, or into a large plastic bag and snip off the tip.

• Pipe the chocolate into the molds.

• Place a stick into each mold, give it a wiggle down into the chocolate, and pipe a little more chocolate on top if it isn’t completely covered.

• Give the mold a tap on the counter to settle it and to dislodge any air bubbles.

• Allow the lollipops to set at room temperature until completely firm.  Or pop into the freezer for a few minutes.

• Remove the lollipops from their molds, wrap them in lollipop bags, and tie them shut with ribbon or a twist tie.

Lavender Blueberry Pear Pate de Fruits
from Brittles, Barks, & Bonbons by Charity Ferreira
Yield: about 75 ¾“ cubes

Ingredients:
2 pounds Anjou pears
1 pound frozen blueberries
4 c. sugar, divided
½ c. water
2 three-ounce packages liquid pectin
3 T. fresh lemon juice
1 T. finely ground culinary lavender

Method:

• Line an 8-inch square pan with aluminum foil, or use an 8-inch square disposable aluminum pan.

• Wash the pears, peel them, slice them in half, and core them.

• In a medium saucepan over medium heat, stir together the pears, the blueberries, two cups of the sugar, and the water, and simmer gently until the pears are quite tender, about 20 minutes.

• Let the mixture cool slightly.  Then puree it in a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, until it is very smooth.

• Return the puree to the pan and add the pectin, lemon juice, lavender, and one cup of sugar.

• Bring to a low simmer and cook, stirring frequently, especially as it reduces, until the mixture is quite thick, about one hour.  It should part briefly when you run a wooden spoon down the middle.

• Scrape the puree into your pan and smooth the surface with a spatula.

• Let it cool at room temperature for an hour.  Then cover it with cellophane and refrigerate it for two hours, or up to two weeks.

• Keep the pate de fruits in the refrigerator until you would like to serve it.  Then, place the remaining sugar in a dish.  Invert the pate de fruits onto a cutting board and slice it into ¾“ squares.  Roll the squares in the sugar.  If you wish to serve only a few cubes, just cut a slice from the pan and sugar a handful of cubes.  It will keep in the refrigerator for about two weeks.

Turkish Delight Tips
I use Certo brand liquid pectin.  You may have to hunt a bit for it outside the jam and jelly season.  I looked at four stores before I got wise and picked up the phone.   Cub Foods in Minnesota carries it year round.  Amazon also carries it and would be an easy option if you plan ahead.

Rosewater-scented Turkish Delight
Adapted from Christmas Sweets by Georgeann Brennan
Yield: about 64 little squares

Ingredients:
2 T. water
2 three-ounce packets plus I T. liquid pectin
½ t. baking soda
1 ¼ c. light corn syrup
¾ c. sugar
1 t. rosewater, or other extract
2 drops red food coloring, if desired
1 T. fresh lemon juice
confectioners’ sugar for dusting

Method:

• In a large saucepan, combine the water and pectin.  Stir in the baking soda.  The mixture will foam and become frothy.

• In another large saucepan, combine the corn syrup and sugar.

• Place both pans over high heat and bring to a boil stirring constantly.  Cook four to five minutes.

• When the pectin mixture has stopped foaming and the sugar is boiling, slowly pour the pectin into the sugar, stirring constantly.  Boil for one minute stirring constantly.

• Add the rosewater and the food coloring, if using, and stir.  Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice.

• Pour into an eight-inch square glass baking dish and let stand until firm, about three to four hours.

• Cut the Turkish Delight into one-inch squares and dust them with confectioners’ sugar.  Allow them to dry on a rack at room temperature overnight.

• Dust the squares with confectioners’ sugar again and place them between layers of waxed paper in a tin.  They will keep for about three weeks.

Caramel Tips
Pay attention when you are bringing the cream to a boil.  This isn’t a good time to take a quick phone call.  It will boil up—and over—very suddenly.  Mmm hmm, I’m off to clean my stove right now.

Use a very large pan for the caramel.  When you add the chocolate and cream, the sugar will boil up, sputter, and steam.  If you have an extra long wooden spoon, use it for this recipe, too.

I use a candy thermometer for this recipe, but you don’t have to purchase one to make it.  In fact, I have made caramel for many years without one.  Have a saucer or small bowl of cold water ready at your side.  When the caramel begins to thicken, begin dropping a dab of caramel onto the saucer.  Give it a little pinch with your fingers.  It’s ready when it forms a defined but soft ball that you can squish easily. For more information on deciphering candy stages and useful videos demonstrating the appearance of each stage see The Science of Cooking’s The Cold Water Candy Test.

The original recipe suggests you cook the caramel to 255 degrees.  Rock city.  It needs to be cooked to the soft ball stage, which is a candy making notation to indicate, depending on the source, 235-245 degrees.  Under 240 degrees, this caramel is not quite firm enough.  At 242 degrees, it’s perfect.

If you’re using a candy thermometer, have a hot pad ready.  The thermometer can become quite hot.  And if your candy thermometer isn’t very tall, hold it rather than clipping it to the pan.  If the caramel burbles up over the numbers you’ll be in a pickle.

If you’re using a digital thermometer, do not clip it to the side of the pan.  The constant heat is not a happy partner for its delicate innards, and mine have gone on the fritz and then died.  Conventional candy thermometers are perfectly happy clipped to the side of the pan, and I recommend them over their high tech counterparts.

Use the best cream and chocolate you can for this recipe.  A higher butterfat content is better.  I love Cedar Summit Farms’ luxurious cream and Lindt bittersweet chocolate is extra smooth.

Do not scrape the pan with a spatula when you pour the caramel into a pan.  The caramel against the bottom and sides of the pan are hotter and will form a hard sheet in your caramel.

Dark Chocolate Caramels with Smoked Sea Salt
Adapted from Gourmet magazine
Yield:  about 100 1½“ caramels

Ingredients:
4 c. heavy cream
20 ounces excellent bittersweet chocolate (no more than 60% cacao), finely chopped
3 ½ c. sugar
1 c. light corn syrup
½ c. water
6 T. unsalted butter cut into tablespoons
1 T. smoked flaked sea salt  (I use Maldon brand.)

Method:

• Lightly butter a sheet pan or jelly roll pan, line it with parchment paper, and lightly butter the parchment.  Place the pan on a flat surface on one or two hot pads so it’s ready for the hot caramel.

• In a large saucepan, bring the cream to a boil over medium heat.  Turn off the heat and add the chocolate.  Allow it to rest for one minute.  Then stir the chocolate until it is smooth.

• In a very large pan, mix together the sugar, corn syrup, and water.  Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar is completely dissolved.

• Allow the sugar mixture to boil until it is deep amber in color.  Do not stir it during this process.

• Add the chocolate and cream to the sugar mixture and stir them together.

• Boil the caramel until it reaches 242 degrees on a candy thermometer, or until a dab dropped onto a saucer filled with cold water forms a soft but defined ball.  (See caramel tips above.)

• The caramel will begin to thicken, but the change is not as dramatic as with cream caramels.

• Turn off your stove and stir in the butter until it is completely incorporated.

• Pour the mixture quickly into the pan and tilt the pan to distribute it into an even, glossy sheet.   Allow it to set for ten minutes.

• Sprinkle it with the smoked salt and allow it to cool at room temperature.

• When the caramel has cooled, run a knife around the edge of the pan, remove it from the pan on its parchment liner, and slice it with a sharp knife into squares or rectangles.

• Wrap each caramel in a square of waxed paper and twist the ends closed.

• I store the caramels in a tin at room temperature.  They keep for a few weeks.

Caramel Tips
Use a very large pan for this recipe in case it boils up.

I use a candy thermometer for this recipe, but you don’t have to purchase one to make it.  In fact, I made it for many years without one.  Have a saucer or small bowl of cold water ready at your side.  When the caramel begins to thicken and darken a bit, begin dropping a dab of caramel onto the saucer.  Give it a little pinch with your fingers.  It’s ready when it forms a defined but soft ball that you can squish easily.

If you’re using a candy thermometer, it’s worth taking a few minutes to check that it’s calibrated properly.  Put it into a pan of boiling water.  It should read 212 degrees.  If it’s off, toss it.

If you’re using a candy thermometer, have a hot pad ready.  The thermometer can become quite hot.  And if your candy thermometer isn’t very tall, hold it rather than clipping it to the pan.  If the caramel burbles up over the numbers you’ll be in a pickle.

If you’re using a digital thermometer, do not clip it to the side of the pan.  The constant heat is hot a happy partner for its delicate innards, and mine have gone on the fritz and then died.  Conventional candy thermometers are perfectly happy clipped to the side of the pan, and I recommend them over their high tech counterparts.

If you live in a state with a high altitude, skip the candy thermometer and rely on the cold water test.

Use the best cream you can for this recipe.  A higher butterfat content is better.  I love Cedar Summit Farms’ luxurious cream.

Do not scrape the pan with a spatula when you pour the caramel into a pan.  The caramel against the bottom and sides of the pan are hotter and will form a hard sheet in your caramel.

I cut and wrap the caramel strip by strip.  If you do not separate each piece as you cut it, it will stick together.  I place the block of caramel on one large cutting board and work on a small cutting board with each strip, wrapping as I go.

Cream Caramels
Yield: about 100 1″ x 2″ caramels

Ingredients:
4 c. sugar
1 ½ c. light corn syrup
1 c. unsalted butter
1 quart (4 c.) heavy cream

Method:

• Lightly butter a sheet pan or jelly roll pan, line it with parchment paper, and lightly butter the parchment.  Place the pan on a flat surface on one or two hot pads so it’s ready for the hot caramel.

• In a large pan, mix together all of the ingredients except two cups of the cream.

• Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly.

• Gradually add the remaining two cups of cream.

• Continue stirring.  It will thicken significantly and darken a bit.

• Cook to the soft ball stage, or to 240 degrees, or until a dab dropped onto a saucer filled with cold water forms a soft but defined ball.  (See caramel tips above.)

• Pour the mixture quickly into the pan and tilt the pan to distribute it into an even, glossy sheet.  Allow it to cool at room temperature.

• When the caramel has cooled, run a knife around the edge of the pan, and remove it from the pan on its parchment liner. Slice a one-inch strip off the caramel with a sharp knife and pull it away from the rest of the block.  Slice this strip into two-inch lengths, separating them as you cut.  The caramel will stick if you leave it touching.  Continue cutting the caramel into rectangles.

• Wrap each caramel in a square of waxed paper and twist the ends closed.

• I store the caramels in a tin at room temperature.  They keep for a few weeks.

Fudge Tips
I think the flavor of this fudge is greatly improved by buying fresh walnuts and toasting them in the oven for a few minutes.  Place them on a baking sheet in a 350 degree oven for about 10 minutes until they are fragrant and toasted.

Use a very large pan when you make this.  It boils up.

Carnation evaporated milk used to be sold in a 13-ounce can.  Buy a 12-ounce can and a little five-ounce can, and measure 2 ½ T. from the little one to make up the extra ounce.

When you pour the fudge out of the pan and onto a baking sheet do not scrape out the pan with a spatula or spoon.  This will cause the fudge be become grainy.  You can eat the remaining fudge in the pan with a spoon if you don’t want it to go to waste.  It’s kind of fun to have the pan to yourself, too.

Work quickly to spread the fudge to the edges of the pan.  If you overwork it it will become grainy and lose its smooth appearance.

To cut the fudge into servings, run a knife around the edge of your pan and lift the entire sheet with its parchment liner onto a large cutting board.  Trim the rough edges and slice the fudge into squares.

This recipe is part of the Cookie Baking and Candy Making Plan for Christmas 2010 (here).

Chocolate Fudge with Walnuts
Yield: about 50 2″ pieces

Ingredients:
4 ½ c. sugar
13 ounces Carnation evaporated milk
½ unsalted butter (2 sticks), cut into tablespoons
1 T. vanilla extract
18 ounces Nestle chocolate chips
2 c. fresh walnuts, toasted on a sheet pan in the oven for 10 minutes at 350 degrees F

Method:

• Butter a standard half sheet pan or jelly roll pan and line it with parchment.  Butter the parchment.

• In a very large pan over low heat stir together the sugar and evaporated milk until they are silky smooth.

• Bring to a boil over low heat and boil for six minutes.

• Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla, butter, and chocolate chips.

• Stir until well combined and glossy.

• Pour immediately into the sheet pan or jelly roll pan and smooth it quickly with a wooden spoon.  Do not overwork the fudge or it will lose its smooth appearance.

• Refrigerate until set.

• Cut into squares and store in the refrigerator.